Ever since Pasteur discovered the existence of microorganisms in the mid-nineteenth century, we have viewed germs as the cause of infectious diseases and perceived them as a threat to our health.
Recent research, however, highlights the positive role of specific microbial communities that colonise our bodies under normal conditions (as we speak!) and interact symbiotically with our own, human cells to keep the body healthy.
These microorganisms have been shown to be not only useful, but even essential: when they lack in diversity or become unbalanced, they cause various kinds of issues, including in the skin and scalp.
In cosmetology, an exciting new approach is emerging which involves balancing the populations of microorganisms living on the skin's surface in order to maintain or restore the health of our hair and scalp. Let's dive into this fascinating field with an overview of the most relevant terms.

The local flora works closely with scalp cells to maintain a state of equilibrium called eubiosis and to prevent its opposite, dysbiosis, which can increase the incidence of many conditions

Picture the scalp as an ecosystem. It is home to a vast community of friendly microorganisms which protect the skin from pathogenic germs, free radicals, and pollutants, reducing the risk of dermatitis and alopecia.
The scalp’s equilibrium depends on a diverse microbiota, which serves as a protective shield, maintaining hydration and promoting its natural immune and skin repair mechanisms.
In particular, up to 22% of a healthy microbiota is composed of fungi – almost exclusively yeasts of the Malassezia species.

 

Simple definitions

The microbiota is the set of microorganisms (bacteria, fungi, viruses, protozoa) that live in a specific environment at a given time. Examples of microbiota include skin microbiota (also called skin flora or dermobiota) and the famous gut bacterial flora.
The microbiome is the comprehensive genetic heritage of the microbiota, which plays an important role in supporting essential human functions such as metabolism and immune response.
Probiotics are live microorganisms, which form part of a specific microbiota and can also be supplemented with external sources. Fermented foods like miso, tempeh, kefir, and kombucha can supply probiotics to the gut microbiota.
Prebiotics are the food that probiotics eat.
Postbiotics are substances derived from probiotics. They are produced by bacterial metabolism, which ferments the food during digestion. Postbiotics include certain enzymes, vitamins, and amino acids, among other elements.

 

The Scalp Microbiota

The study of the scalp microbiota is in its early stages and represents a stimulating challenge for science.
We now know that a multitude of microorganisms colonise the skin immediately after birth, thanks to contact with the mother and the external environment. Initially, the microbiota was thought to only live on the skin's surface, but research has revealed that it is also present in the hair and sweat glands, where it has an even greater impact on the health of the scalp and hair.

 

What disorders are caused or aggravated by an unbalanced microbiota?

In terms of scalp conditions, over 50% of the world's population, meaning young people and adults regardless of sex or ethnicity, experience dandruff occasionally or regularly. Dandruff is caused by an over-proliferation of Malassezia yeasts, which grow exponentially as a result of excessive sebum production (on which they feed). Not only can the skin become irritated, flaky, and red, but the presence of sebaceous plugs makes it difficult for the hair to pass through the follicular ostium, i.e., through the opening that allows it to emerge from the skin surface as it grows. The resulting, persistent pressure at the base damages the dermal papilla, preventing it from generating new hair. This is why dandruff can lead to hair loss.

Seborrheic dermatitis can also occur along with dandruff. Changes to the qualitative composition of the sebum result in greasy scales which are associated with erythema and the development of prostaglandins, substances that play an important biological role in inflammatory processes.
Maintaining a balanced microbiota by preserving the scalp’s ecosystem can therefore have positive effects on dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis, as well as improving productive skin, greasy hair, irritation, itching, flaking, and tendency to hair loss.

 

How to Promote Balanced Microbiota

So, given the information we have today, how can we ensure that the scalp microbiota works in favour of healthy, beautiful hair?

1. You might think one easy way to support balanced, well-diversified scalp flora would be to supplement it by using cosmetics containing live probiotics, just like consuming yogurt with live lactic ferments supports your intestinal health. Although direct supplements would undoubtedly have great benefits, there’s one important problem: in order to be effective, probiotics must be alive, and it would be very difficult to keep them alive while keeping shelf-stable products free from other bacterial growth. Although the search for production methods and packaging suitable for delivering live probiotics to the scalp is ongoing, there are currently too many technical difficulties for this to be a feasible proposition.

2. Instead of using live probiotics, you can opt for cosmetics with prebiotics and postbiotics, mostly fibres and sugars, which feed the microbiota that support ideal scalp conditions. Several studies on atopic dermatitis in children have shown the microbiota is often compromised by the repeated use of harsh detergents.

3. A more holistic and innovative approach involves rebalancing the environmental conditions that help to naturally regulate resident populations.
The possibility of influencing the scalp’s ecosystem is promising for all conditions in which the flora plays a key role, such as dandruff, excessive sebum production, hair loss, and sensitivity.
Supporting the right balance in the microbiota is also extremely important for daily scalp and hair care, even in non-pathological situations, in order to prevent imbalances and discomfort and to protect the scalp’s long-term health.
Medavita's passion for this exciting area of research led us to carefully select a completely natural, microbiota-friendly ingredient with extraordinary properties: epilobium extract.

 

A Valuable Natural Resource

Native to the sub-mountainous regions of the northern hemisphere and now found in temperate areas worldwide, epilobium, also known as "fireweed," is a common perennial plant of the Onagraceae family. The aerial parts have historically been used in folk medicine to soothe skin irritations. Today, scientific studies have confirmed that epilobium contains bioactive molecules belonging to the three main polyphenolic families: flavonoids, phenolic acids, and tannins. Among the tannins, oenothein B is particularly prized for its excellent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, as well as its ability to inhibit the 5-alpha reductase enzyme.

Research also provides plenty of scientific evidence for epilobium’s exceptional ability to regulate microbiota by inhibiting excessive Malassezia growth, ideal for reducing dandruff and scalp irritation. Epilobium’s comprehensive benefits for the scalp go beyond fighting dandruff. It also normalises sebum production, prevents hair loss, regulates the immune-inflammatory response, and strengthens the bonds between epidermal corneocytes, for a sustainable balanced scalp.